OAT Japan, Tuesday, March 24, 2009:

Hakone to Kanazawa

The Gora Asahi Hotel sent us off with a most lavish Japanese-style breakfast that was a visual as well as culinary feast. Most of the rest of this day was devoted to our transfer to the northern coastal city of Kanazawa.

Most exciting was the opportunity to ride the Shinkansen (Bullet Train) from Odawara to Nagoya. We had assigned seats and had to stand at the proper doorway for efficient boarding. In fact, it’s all about efficiency and punctuality as far as Japanese mass transit is concerned.

The Shinkansen sped along at a reputed 160 to 180 MPH, helped by no at-grade road crossings and welded rails. We were astounded how smooth the ride was, given the high speeds.

Most of the terrain between Odawara and Nagoya was heavily urbanized, but we were afforded a spectacular view of Mt. Fuji when the clouds parted!

We arrived in Nagoya Station and had a chance to browse the sleekly-designed commercial concourse stores before boarding the Shirasagi (Express Limited Train) to Kanazawa. Even the Shirasagi, which traveled at about half the speed of the Shinkansen, seemed fast and smooth to us! A few stops before Kanazawa, the train switched tracks and we all swiveled around the paired seats, to face the opposite direction.

There was some time set aside to see a few sights in Kanazawa. First was to be a walk through the Nagamachi Quarter, where the samurai once lived. A sudden rain squall scuttled this activity, so we settled into the Kanazawa Sky Hotel. The weather lifted later that afternoon, so Machiko took us to the vibrant Omicho (Kitchen) Market (above), located right across the street from our hotel.

She then led several of us on a stroll passing historic buildings along a major street. Kanazawa was fortunate in being spared bombing raids during World War II, so much of its historic fabric has been preserved.

The hotel treated us to an elegant French dinner (with Asian-Fusion overtones). Highlights were a shrimp, scallop, tomato and asparagus appetizer; a fish dish with yellow lemon sauce; very tender beef with mushroom; mashed sweet potato; and a dessert medley, consisting of a green tea/almond mousse, chocolate fudge cake, strawberries and star fruit.

We then retired to our room. As noted earlier, Japan has gone over the top in toilet technology, and the “shower” or enhanced bidet toilet here was the most elaborate we encountered on the trip! The toilet seat warmed up upon sit down contact, and the bidet or shower feature was customizable for the male (blue button) or female (pink button) anatomy! This one even had a wall panel of buttons, including two for the electronic lifting of the toilet seat and/or cover, and additional controls we did not even bother to explore!

OAT Japan, Monday, March 23, 2009:

Day Trip from Gora, Hakone

A heavy overnight rain gave way to a beautiful sunny morning, so the prospects for a beautiful excursion were looking up.

Marie, the more venturesome of the two of us, donned her informal kimono, and made a pre-breakfast visit to the women’s onsen. She said she was the only non-Asian among several nude women in the baths. She dipped only briefly in the 104°F water.

After that experience, we headed to a buffet breakfast with Western and Japanese offerings, more diverse than that offered by the Mets Shibuya. We then embarked on today’s first adventure: the funicular and aerial gondola ride to the Owakudani (Great Boiling Valley) thermal springs area. We had a chance to explore some sulphur springs near the visitors’ center, and try the famous blackened eggs, hard boiled in the hot springs, supposedly good for longevity.

The bus then transferred us to the cruise terminal at Ashinoko Lake (also known as Lake Ashi). We were treated to a half hour scenic cruise along the eastern shore on a replica of a medieval sailing vessel to the Hakone-Machi port. We were hoping for a view of Mt. Fuji, but it had become too overcast. At least it was not raining.

Several of us opted to walk the remaining distance to the Hakone Hotel for lunch, where this view was taken. Machiko took us on a short segment of a cedar-lined path that was one of the few preserved original segments of the Old Tokaido Highway that is said to date to 1618. The road, with 53 checkpoints, connected ancient Edo (Tokyo) with Kyoto. This pathway segment and the recently reconstructed Hakone Sekisho Shiryokan (Hakone Checkpoint), that served Hakone (Station 45) now comprise a National Historic Site. A small museum was nearby.

We were treated to a most magnificent luncheon buffet at the Hakone Hotel in their Mediterranean-style Il Miraggio dining room. The eclectic cuisine included Italian and other European dishes as well as diverse Asian offerings.

After lunch, we hopped the bus back to Gora. On the way, we stopped in at the Hamamatsuya workshop, located in the village of Hatajuku, where specialists in parquetry and marquetry created their exquisite wooden objects. This kind of art is known as Yoseigi-Zaiku, a specialty of the Hakone region. The master craftsman went into much detail about the various techniques. Most interesting were the intricate puzzle boxes, at least as complex as the Rubik’s Cube!

The rest of the afternoon was free, so we had the bus driver drop us off at the Hakone Open-Air Museum, located at the Chokoku-no-Mori Station on the Hakone-Tozen rail line, within walking distance of our hotel. We spent a pleasant hour strolling among the huge outdoor sculptures graced with blooming trees.

The interior of the large cylinder behind the cherry tree was a hidden gem, as can be seen from this kaleidascopic view of its interior!

Most impressive to us was the Picasso Collection, which housed over 300 works in many media. The Collection featured a large assortment of pottery purchased from Picasso's eldest daughter, Maya Picasso, but also included a variety of paintings, prints, sculptures, and gold and silver objects. There were even several pieces of stained glass!

We enjoyed a light Japanese supper back at the hotel, then headed to our futons for the night.

OAT Japan, Sunday, March 22, 2009:

Tokyo to Gora, Hakone

After the beautiful sight-seeing day yesterday, the weather turned cloudy and blustery this morning, portending a storm. (This was the morning of the FedEx airplane crash, fatal to the two pilots, where wind shear might have been a factor).

Machiko added a Tokyo attraction not listed in the itinerary, the Meiji Jingu Shrine, located nearby in the Shibuya Ward. This was a Shinto shrine, dedicated to Emperor Meiji, who died in 1912, and Empress Shoken in 1914. This quiet retreat ensconced in a 175-acre botanical forest was completed in 1921, but the World War II Tokyo air raids destroyed it. In 1958, through a public fund raising, the people of Japan completed a faithful reproduction of the shrine and outbuildings, constructed largely of Japanese cedar and copper. We had a good time photographing a wedding party on the grounds. Note the couple at the water dipping fount; we saw many people throughout the country wearing face masks, apparently for hygienic reasons.

We took off for the drive to the mountains. The itinerary called for a view of Mount Fuji from the 5th station (about 7,562 feet altitude), but the inclement weather closed in, so we stopped instead at the Fuji Visitor Center. We were able to take in a video (in English) about Mt. Fuji and environs, then we took off in a rain-snow mix to our luncheon spot.

The restaurant was a French bistro that served an excellent set menu of roast pork with a reduced wine sauce, fresh rolls with no butter in the French style, and a sinfully rich dark chocolate brownie for dessert. We were surprised how Japan has taken to French cuisine; we saw restaurants, boulangeries and patisseries in every city we visited!

Thus sated, we continued to Gora, Hakone, an onsen (hot baths) spa resort town, where we checked in at the Gora Asahi Hotel. This is the one example of a ryokan (Japanese-style) hotel) we encountered on the trip. The place was fully traditionally Japanese in that we took afternoon tea on cushions in our room over a floor-hugging table. A high-tech teapot was on standby, bubbling away in a corner of our room. We were asked to remove our shoes and walk on the wooden floors in the provided slippers and delicate tatami (reed) mats in our stocking feet. The hotel encouraged us to wear the provided kimonos and tanzen (outer robes) in the public areas.

We spent the rainy afternoon learning some basic origami and watching a kabuki theater production on the hotel’s wide screen TV.

We enjoyed a lavish Japanese banquet for dinner with seven appetizers and seven courses! Highlights included the appetizer array of raw sliver salmon, shrimp, smelt and whitefish with assorted vegetables and roe; sukiyaki prepared in wax parchment over a tea candle burner; and a long dish dessert of strawberry and flan with a dollop of whipped cream. Everyone was in awe of the quality and quantity of food on this trip so far!


Marie starred as the model for a demonstration of the proper preparation of a traditional kimono for wearing. The attendant, Akiko, spent considerable time tying and retying the obi (sash) around Marie’s waist. The cost of an obi can be more that that of the kimono itself! (Photo Credits: Ray)

While we were dining, hotel staff rearranged our room by moving the table aside, and bringing in futons for us to sleep on. We were skeptical about our sleeping comfort, but it turned out we both slept very well!

OAT Japan, Saturday, March 21, 2009:

Day in Tokyo

Breakfast at the Mets; Welcome Briefing:

The Mets Shibuya offered a buffet breakfast consisting of both Western and Japanese food. We were to learn that all the accommodations offered by OAT provided buffet-style breakfast that appealed to both Western and Japanese tastes. The hotels were typically 3-star mid-priced hostelries that appealed to business travelers as well as travel groups.

Machiko led a welcome briefing for the eight participants who arrived after the Tokyo pre-extension trip: Michiko (a native of Kyoto) who lives in Denver, CO; John and Sally also from Denver; Irina from Alpharetta, GA; Evelyn from Scotch Plains, NJ; Jean from Pittsburgh, PA; and Doug and Marie from San Diego.

Later on, the pre-extension participants joined us: Ray and Virgie from Danville, CA; Tom and Marilyn from San Ramon, CA and “E.C” and Jana from Young Harris, GA.

City Tour of Tokyo:

We then embarked on a half-day tour of Tokyo. First up was the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Complex, located in the Ward of Shinjuku. Since this was Saturday and the National Vernal Equinox holiday, this was a good day for tourists to visit the 48th-story enclosed observation deck in the City Hall tower. The cloudless day afforded us a distant view of 12, 388-foot Mt. Fuji, the highest point in Japan.

Next was the Asakusa Kannon Temple complex, also known as Sensoji, containing the largest Buddhist temple in Tokyo. Highlights included the impressive Kaminarimon or “Thunder Gate” with its giant lantern guarding the entrance to the complex. We then jostled our way along the crowded Nakamise shopping arcade with its silk cherry blossom branches and tourist-oriented shops to the main gate, Hozomon, famous for a hanging giant straw waraji sandal. The centerpiece in the complex was Kannondo (Kannon), the main temple building. Another landmark was Gojunoto, a five-story pagoda that reputedly contains some ashes from the Buddha, according to Wikitravel.

We had a good time people-watching here as can be seen from the photos.




Another highlight this morning was a brief visit to the Imperial Palace Plaza, site of the Emperor’s residence. Since the Palace was not open to the public, we walked around the moat and were able to photograph the exterior of the main building and grounds.

Note the sculpted trees in the public park located across the street from the Palace.



Our final stop on the tour was the Ginza Shopping District, the most prestigious commercial district in Tokyo. The high end Mitsukoshi Department Store served as our lunch headquarters. Since this meal was on our own, we found inexpensive bento food in the department store basement, and took it up to the rooftop, joining the group for an outdoor snack. Right across the street was the Wako Department Store with its iconic clock tower, rebuilt in 1932 and miraculously surviving the Allied bombing campaign.

We were given time to stroll Chuo Dori, Ginza's major shopping street, closed to vehicular traffic on weekends, then we gathered on the bus for the ride back to the Mets Shibuya. We spent some free time exploring the Shibuya Station commercial district some more, then rested up for dinner.


OAT hosted a welcome dinner at a nearby Japanese restaurant, where sake flowed freely. The most unusual aspect of this dinner was the grilled meats and vegetables cooked on a slab of lava. This food preparation style is called ishi-yaki or hot stone cooking. The waiter brought the food on the heated stone to our table; it was up to us to cook it to our taste.

After this full but enjoyable and informative day, it was time to turn in.

OAT Japan, Wed. March 18-Fri. March 20, 2009:

Transition Time, California to Tokyo

Park and Fly Arrangement:

Since we live in San Diego, we need to drive two hours to reach LAX.
In cases where we must fly from LAX, we arrange a park and fly package at a hotel within shuttle distance of the airport. This is to reduce problems with the inevitable jet lag we would have experienced on our return from Japan. Additionally, we knew the return flight would put us in Los Angeles around 4:00 p.m., at the start of the evening rush hour.

Several hotels offer packages that consist of one night’s stay plus long-term parking programs. We also book a second overnight stay at the end of the trip, to address the jet lag and traffic issues.

The funky Hacienda at LAX, El Segundo, suited our requirements just fine. Their park and fly price before taxes was $149, including up to 14 days of parking. The additional night was a modest $85. We had breakfast at the coffee shop-style Mariposas Restaurant, where a substantial full egg and ham special was available for $5.25.

LAX to Narita Airport:

Check-in was routine and uncomplicated. The United Boeing 747-400 was comfortable as planes go, because we were lucky enough to have bulkhead seats with plenty of legroom. Food was plentiful enough to sustain us through the entire transition period.

We arrived at Narita Airport about 4:30 p.m. March 20 and went through its efficient passport control. The procedure was quite thorough, with photo IDs and fingerprints in addition to the usual electronic passport checks.

We knew we were in a different country when we visited the public restrooms. First of all, they are spotless. The traditional Asian squat toilets still exist, but the authorities are replacing them with “Western” style commodes with elaborate bidet-like features (left) , fancier than anything we ever saw in France! The Toto urinals in the men’s facilities are high-tech, too, with infrared sensors being routine.

Transfer from Narita to the Hotel Mets Shibuya:

Machiko had arranged everything perfectly for our complicated transfer to the Hotel Mets Shibuya. First, the airport limousine bus coordinator stood just outside the baggage claim area with a sign welcoming us. He obtained our tickets, and ensured that we boarded the correct bus to head into central Tokyo. Traffic jams were everywhere, so the 37-mile ride took over two hours. We were startled to see a simulation of the Eiffel Tower, bathed in yellow lights, on the way. (We learned later this was the Tokyo Tower, built in 1958 as a communications broadcasting facility).

The limousine service terminated at the Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel some distance away, so we needed to take a taxi to the Mets Shibuya. We had the 700¥ handy to pay the fare, to be reimbursed by OAT with a receipt.

A smiling Machiko greeted us in the lobby of the Mets Shibuya. She was surprised to see how little luggage we had brought! After escorting us to our room, she offered to take Irina and the two of us for a night walk around the Japan Rail (JR) Shibuya Station neighborhood. Since we needed the exercise after the long flight, we went for it.

The diversified high-rise development around the station included hotels, retail commercial, restaurants, office and residential towers. To a planner, this was a Transit-Oriented Development (TOD) carried out to an extreme seldom seen in the United States. Even at 9:00 at night, the place was swarming with crowds. We walked past a wide variety of eating choices ranging from cheap kaiten (conveyor belt) sushi places with plastic replicas in the windows (dishes from 130¥) and noodle houses (500¥) to a department store basement where cheap take-out offerings were available as well as fancy bento boxes at 3800¥!

OAT Japan Tour 2009

Preliminary Planning For The Trip

Tour Information and Assistance:

Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT) was exceptionally helpful in preparing for the trip. In additional to the usual printed comprehensive itinerary, the tour leader, Machiko Abe (left), communicated directly with the tour participants by e-mail. For example, she alerted us to last minute changes to the itinerary. Additionally, she provided a link to the Japanese Meteorological Agency’s weekly weather forecast. She gave as an example the planned stop half way up Mt. Fuji where snow was expected. We packed a few extra articles of clothing as a result. (Note: the extra clothing came in especially handy when we were visiting frigid Kanazawa and the mountain villages of Gokayama and Shirakawa-Go).

On-Line Research:

Although OAT includes most meals in the tour price, there were a few lunches and dinners where we were on our own. We had heard horror stories where sit down meals could cost a budget-breaking 10,000 Yen (¥) ($100) a person on up! This convinced Marie to research the Web for (relatively) inexpensive sources of food. These included “conveyor belt” sushi bars, and public food markets located within close walking distance of our hotels in Tokyo, Kanazawa and Kyoto. (Note: We found Google maps are as detailed as those for urban areas in the U.S., including the satellite and street view features. This resource was most helpful in pinpointing some promising purveyors of cheap yet authentic Japanese food.

Currency Exchange:

One decision we made early on was to obtain some ¥ currency in advance. This was due to two reasons. First was the recent extreme volatility in the currency exchange market. In the past month, the ratio varied from 88¥ to 100¥ to the dollar. According to the Narita Airport Web site, the best exchange rate (the higher, the better) was available for travelers’ cheques, issued by the Bank of Tokyo-Mitsubishi; from what we understand, cheques from other issuers may not receive as good a rate. We found that Wells Fargo Bank, where we have an account, offered rates comparable to the cash exchange rate at the airport.

Exchange rate examples-assuming a ratio of 98¥ to the dollar, which were close to actual (March 13, 2009):

Bank of Tokyo-Mitsubishi Travelers’ Cheques: 96¥ to the dollar.
U.S. Cash at the airport: 94¥ to the dollar.
Wells Fargo (including small processing fee): 93.7¥ to the dollar.
For comparison, Travelex was offering only 89¥ to the dollar before commissions!

The second reason for having some ¥ currency in advance is to cater to the possibility that we might miss the airport limousine service that OAT has arranged for tour participants. If we had to catch a limousine on our own, we must pay 6000¥ up front for the two of us!

If one needed to convert additional currency, one could use debit-ATM cards (it is said that postal services ATMs are most reliable), at close to the official exchange rate. Alternatively, one could exchange limited amounts of U.S. dollars at banks or hotels, at a ratio close to the cash rate quoted at the airport Web site.

Decision to Bring Only Carry-on Luggage:

We have learned over the years that we should carry as little luggage as possible, even on international travel. This certainly eases the check-in and customs procedures, and eliminates the fees airlines now charge for checked items. The fact that we had only carry-on luggage paid dividends during the whole trip, since larger suitcases often needed to be transported by courier. This was due to the use of trains and small buses with limited luggage space.

Look for our reports and photos of the sights and experiences in Japan!

Anza-Borrego Desert Flower Display, March, 2009

We decided to make a return trip to the Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, to see this year's wildflower display. (See the 2008 Borrego Posting for the routing).

March 6, 2009 was brisk and cool as we left San Diego, and was predicted to be cool in the desert as well. Our first stop, as is our tradition, was Dudley's Bakery,where we bought loaves of Danish Apple Pecan and Sun Dried Tomato bread. Their breads are still offered in 24-ounce loaves for a current price of $4.60 apiece. (They offer a deal where one buys four loaves, the fifth loaf is free). Some changes we noticed since last year's visit: The establishment is now open only Thursday-Sunday, and the business plan now calls for more self-service for walk-in customers.

The Anza-Borrego Desert Visitor Center is an excellent source for seeking out the best blooms, and after obtaining the routing map, we strolled about the grounds. Here are some photos of their representative specimens.











Another tradition for us is a picnic on the grounds of Christmas Circle Park, located in Borrego Springs. This being Friday, we were fortunate to be able to visit the Borrego Springs Chamber of Commerce Farmers' Market. This Certified Farmers' Market operates each Friday from 7 am to 12 Noon. We had a hankering for fresh strawberries so we bought a basket to supplement our picnic.






After lunch, we drove north on DiGiorgio Road to Desert Garden, located at the mouth of Coyote Canyon. We felt the display was not as showy as it was in 2008, and the ground seemed drier.

On the other hand, flowers along Henderson Canyon Road, where we took these photos, were on excellent display, and the stand of Arizona Lupine near Peg Leg Junction was the most spectacular in recent memory!









We then headed up Banner Grade to historic Julian, where we took time to stroll the main street. One of our favorite hangouts in town is the restaurant, now known as the Miner's Diner. It is located in the Levi-Marks Store Building, which has existed since 1886, and the old-fashioned soda fountain in the photo dates back to 1928. Many years ago, we would stop in Tozer's Drug Store, as it was known then, for their sinfully rich chocolate milk shakes. Back in the 1970s, each shake cost 55 cents; we're sure they are over $5 each in 2009!